Buckskin Joe, Colorado – Gone & Back and Gone Again
The story of Buckskin Joe, Colorado, is a captivating tale of boom and bust, of dreams realized and abandoned, and of resurrection and relocation. This once-thriving mining camp, also known as Laurette, experienced the exhilarating rush of the Pike’s Peak Gold Rush, only to fade into a desolate ghost town. Later, it was reborn as a tourist attraction, a nostalgic glimpse into the Old West, before ultimately being dismantled and moved to a private ranch, marking yet another chapter in its remarkable history.
The saga of Buckskin Joe began in 1859, approximately two miles west of present-day Alma, Colorado, in Park County. A prospector named Mr. Phillips staked a mining claim, hoping to strike it rich in the newly discovered goldfields. However, Phillips, unimpressed with the initial prospects, quickly moved on, unaware of the riches that lay beneath the surface.
The claim was soon acquired by Joseph Higgenbottom, a figure who would inadvertently lend his name to the burgeoning settlement. Higgenbottom was known for his distinctive buckskin clothing, a sartorial choice that earned him the moniker "Buckskin Joe." As more miners flocked to the area, drawn by whispers of gold, the camp adopted the name of its buckskin-clad inhabitant, becoming known as Buckskin Joe.
Higgenbottom’s tenure in the camp was short-lived. He traded his mining rights for a gun and a horse, relinquished his water rights to settle a whiskey debt, and departed for the mines of the San Juan Mountains, leaving behind the settlement that bore his name.
The true potential of Buckskin Joe was soon realized. Rich claims were discovered in the surrounding area, igniting a frenzy of excitement and attracting a flood of new prospectors. By the spring of 1860, the news of the gold strike had spread far and wide, and miners poured into the camp in droves. Sluice boxes were constructed along Buckskin Creek, and substantial quantities of gold were extracted from the streambeds. Initially, the old Spanish method of arrastra was used to crush the ore, but a mill was soon erected to process the softer ore from the lode. By September of 1860, all the claims in the district had been purchased, and an estimated 2,000 men were actively working in the area, transforming the landscape and fueling the rapid growth of the town.
The mining camp rapidly evolved into a bustling town. Despite attempts to officially name the settlement Laurette, a contraction of the first names of the only two women in the camp – sisters Laura and Jeanette Dodge – the name Buckskin Joe persisted in popular usage and ultimately became the established name.
In 1861, a post office was established, signaling the town’s growing importance. By this time, Buckskin Joe boasted two hotels, 14 stores, and a bank, catering to the needs of its burgeoning population. In August 1861, Horace and Augusta Tabor, prominent figures in Colorado’s history, arrived in Buckskin Joe, bringing with them a wagon load of supplies, groceries, and household merchandise. They established a store that quickly became the most successful in the area. Over the next seven years, Horace invested in local mines and became the postmaster, while Augusta managed the post office, despite being legally barred from holding the position herself. Horace also became deeply involved in community affairs, solidifying their place in the town’s history.
Adding to the unique character of Buckskin Joe was Father John L. Dyer, an itinerant Methodist preacher from Ohio. His circuit encompassed Fairplay, Park City, Buckskin Joe, and Breckenridge. In the early days, to supplement his meager income, Dyer prospected for gold when not delivering sermons. As easily accessible placer deposits dwindled and the cost of essential goods soared, Dyer added mail-carrying to his ministerial duties. He made weekly treks from Mosquito Gulch and Buckskin Joe over mountain passes to Leadville and Breckenridge, undeterred by harsh winter conditions or the absence of improved roads. Often on ten-foot-long skis with 30 pounds of mail strapped to his back, Father Dyer braved deep snow and gale-force winds to deliver both earthly and spiritual messages.
In January 1862, Buckskin Joe achieved a significant milestone when it became the county seat of Park County, replacing Tarryall, which is now also a ghost town. This further cemented the town’s position as a center of commerce and governance in the region.
However, the boom years of Buckskin Joe were not destined to last forever. By 1866, the rich gold deposits in the area were largely exhausted, leading to a decline in mining activity. In 1867, the courthouse was moved down the valley to Fairplay, the new county seat, signaling the beginning of the end for Buckskin Joe’s prominence. At its peak, the town boasted a population of approximately 3,000 people and was home to numerous saloons, gambling halls, and traveling minstrel shows. The main street was lined with stores, a post office, an assay office, a courthouse, two banks, a newspaper, a mill, and three hotels, reflecting the vibrant and diverse nature of the community.
From 1859 until the mill closed in 1866, the mining district reportedly produced $16 million in gold, a testament to the area’s initial wealth. However, with the closure of the mill and the depletion of the gold deposits, most of the residents left Buckskin Joe in search of fortune in other mining camps and towns throughout the Rocky Mountains, leaving behind a skeletal community.
Despite the mass exodus, a few hardy individuals remained. One such person was J.P. Stansell, who amassed a fortune by reworking the residue of the Phillips Mine long after the other miners had departed. Another was Horace Tabor, who would later achieve even greater wealth in Leadville, becoming one of Colorado’s most prominent figures.
Today, little remains of the original Buckskin Joe except for the cemetery and the memories it holds. An examination of the tombstone dates reveals a significant increase in burials in 1861 and 1862, reflecting the hardships and dangers faced by the miners and settlers. The cemetery, located down the road from the old townsite, offers a poignant glimpse into the lives and struggles of those who once called Buckskin Joe home. The stone grave of young Thomas Fahey recounts his tragic death after he left his cabin on a blustery February day to go to his mine and never returned. His body was not discovered until the following June.
Many of the miners were immigrants from Europe, and some of the tombstones feature images of their homelands and inscriptions in their native languages. The elaborate stone carvings and ornate ironwork on the gravesites stand in stark contrast to the modest cabins and other structures that once comprised the town, showcasing the skill and craftsmanship of the early settlers. The cemetery is still used by the town of Alma, serving as a final resting place for generations of residents.
The original site of Buckskin Joe is located northwest of Fairplay, Colorado, on Highway 9, near the modern-day town of Alma, Colorado.
The Legend of Silver Heels
Adding to the rich tapestry of Buckskin Joe’s history is the legend of "Silver Heels," a dance hall girl who became a local hero in 1861. Her true name was never known, but she was dubbed "Silver Heels," perhaps in reference to her dance shoes or her captivating performances. Silver Heels quickly became beloved by the miners, who showered her with gifts and pleaded with her to stay.
In the winter of 1861, a devastating smallpox epidemic struck Buckskin Joe. The disease spread rapidly, and many miners and their families fell ill. The citizens of Buckskin Joe sent word to Denver for nurses, but none arrived. Silver Heels selflessly stayed in Buckskin Joe to nurse the sick, care for families, and bury the dead.
By the spring of 1862, the worst of the epidemic had passed, but Silver Heels had vanished. Some say that she had contracted smallpox, which left her face horribly scarred. A few years later, a heavily veiled woman was reportedly seen in the Buckskin Joe cemetery, leading some to speculate that it was the missing Silver Heels.
In gratitude for her bravery and compassion, the people of the area named a mountain "Mount Silver Heels" in her honor.
Legend has it that Silver Heels has never truly left. Some members of the community claim to have seen the ghost-like figure of a heavily veiled woman dressed in black walking through the cemetery, carrying flowers. This spectral figure is said to vanish into the mountain air if approached.
Another restless spirit said to reside in the old cemetery is that of J. Dawson Hidgepath. In July 1865, Dawson’s broken, lifeless body was found at the bottom of Mount Boss, where he had fallen while prospecting for gold.
Soon after his burial, Dawson’s bones were discovered on the bed of a prostitute in Alma. Townspeople reburied the bones in Buckskin Joe Cemetery. But time after time, the bones reappeared at the house of some "fair lady." By 1872, Dawson’s bones were the talk of the state. The "force" that kept Dawson’s bones from staying buried is said to still reside in the old cemetery.
The New Buckskin Joe
In the 1950s, Karol Smith conceived the idea of restoring Buckskin Joe. In 1957, he met Don Tyner and Malcolm F. Brown. Brown was an art director at Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Studios, and Tyner owned the Royal Gorge Scenic Railway. Together, they embarked on a project to rebuild Buckskin Joe. It was decided that the town would be reborn next to the Royal Gorge Scenic Railway. Land was purchased approximately eight miles east of Cañon City, where the town of Buckskin Joe was recreated.
Each building and structure in the new Buckskin Joe was intended to represent an actual building from the original town. The buildings were sourced from various ghost towns in the region. The Tabor store building was moved from the original Buckskin Joe. The buildings were dismantled at their original sites, transported to the new site, and reassembled. Each structure was chosen to represent a different type of building, such as a saloon or a jail. The townsite consisted of a long main street with another street intersecting at right angles.
The new Buckskin Joe opened to the public in 1958. Every effort was made to maintain the atmosphere of a mining town in the mid-1800s. Modern vehicles were not allowed on the streets, and the inhabitants dressed in period clothing.
Until 2010, Buckskin Joe Frontier Town & Railway brought the spirit of the Old West to life. The park combined Colorado history with family entertainment. The town featured hourly gunfights, live entertainment, barnyard animals, numerous buggies and wagons, and one Concord-type stagecoach. John Wayne filmed movies at Buckskin Joe in the early 1970s, and in 2001, the History Channel filmed a documentary entitled "The Haunted Rockies" on location.
After 53 years of operation, owner Greg Tabuteau announced in 2010 that he was selling the tourist attraction. In August 2011, it was revealed that the buyer was Billionaire William Koch, who moved most of the buildings to his 6,400-acre Bear Ranch near Gunnison, Colorado. Koch planned to display his collection in the reassembled buildings on his ranch for private viewing. The buildings moved to Koch’s ranch included the Tabor Store.
The story of Buckskin Joe is a complex one, filled with triumphs and tribulations, abandonment and rebirth. Whether in its original incarnation as a bustling mining camp, its resurrected form as a tourist attraction, or its current state as a private collection, Buckskin Joe continues to capture the imagination and serve as a reminder of Colorado’s rich and colorful past.